Damage to the helm is undoubtedly the surest way of heading back to land, but not necessarily the way you would choose! Any kind of breakdown like this would make the sailor powerless to do anything. All the more reason to watch for wear and the slightest signs of rudder failure before it\u2019s too late.<\/p>\n
[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=”Sommaire” _builder_version=”4.16″ _module_preset=”default” text_font=”Source Sans Pro|600|||||||” text_line_height=”2em” link_text_color=”#3e6a91″ background_color=”#fef9f5″ module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”50px||0px||false|false” custom_padding=”30px|30px|30px|80px|false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n
Summary<\/h2>\n
1 – Inspect your rudder system starting with the rudders<\/a> The outer rudder is more accessible than any other, but is just as fragile, and you should always check that its pintles and gudgeons<\/b> (and especially their retaining screws) have no wear or give. A spade rudder is more difficult to access, so you should make the most of any opportunity you get to make sure there\u2019s nothing wrong with it.<\/p>\n When grounding or getting the boat out of the water, check that there is no give between the tiller and the rudder blade<\/b>. The slightest give would have serious consequences in terms of the boat\u2019s feel and responsiveness and therefore your enjoyment, as well as potentially being a harbinger of more serious damage. By moving the blade to either side, you can check that there aren\u2019t any stiff points either, which is probably a sign of a faulty stock. You can check that the rudder is in line with the rest of the boat<\/b> by taking a step back and aiming with the keel. Take this opportunity to check that there are no cracks, especially in the area where the rudder connects to the stock<\/b>. If there are any, it means water may be able to get in and fill the rudder and rot it from the inside.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/blog.bandofboats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/safran-bateau-1.jpg” title_text=”safran-bateau” _builder_version=”4.16″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Paragraphe 1″ module_id=”titre2″ _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_margin=”50px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Take advantage of the fact that the boat is dry to repair even the smallest dents with a quality epoxy putty<\/b>. Of course, you must be careful with the surface finish, the profile, and above all the trailing edge, which must be sharp and flat (not rounded) to avoid creating drag that is detrimental to performance. You must be generous when applying waterproof paint to the appendages and therefore the rudder. And don\u2019t forget the top of the spade\u2026 that narrow, inaccessible space between hull and rudder, which no one sees, and which so many of us neglect\u2026<\/p>\n If you\u2019ve spotted a leak<\/b> in the rudder stock tube or rudder gland, now\u2019s the time to rectify this<\/b>, just like you can check the gaskets for wear by wiggling the rudder blade from left to right and from bow to stern. If you have any doubts, you shouldn\u2019t hesitate to call in a professional.<\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/blog.bandofboats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/gouvernail-bateau.jpg” title_text=”gouvernail-bateau” _builder_version=”4.16″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text admin_label=”Paragraphe 1″ module_id=”titre3″ _builder_version=”4.21.2″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_margin=”50px||||false|false” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n The tiller has to hold up to a lot of exertion, and in a luff start, it\u2019s too late for you to start worrying about neglecting split wood or the screw not being tightened properly\u2026 The tiller controls must also be checked, especially as they\u2019re hidden and therefore more likely to be overlooked<\/b>. Motorboats are equipped with cable steering (which should checked and lubricated) or hydraulic steering (which requires little maintenance other than tightening the fittings and checking the oil level).<\/p>\n On most sailboats, the helm is operated by lines passing through pulleys. You mustn\u2019t neglect to check these cables, and their terminals, as well as checking that axles and pulleys are lubricated, as well as looking for possible traces of electrolysis between the quadrant and the stock (one is generally made of aluminium and the other of stainless steel, so corrosion here can have devastating effects). All these precautions will make the helm softer to hand and more enjoyable and reduce any risks of sudden breakage.<\/p>\n Nevertheless, helm damage can never be totally ruled out and the better prepared you are, the better you are equipped to deal with it. Boats fitted with a wheel steering system must be fitted with a spare tiller; but this shouldn\u2019t be hidden away in the depths of the boat and must be genuinely useable. The safest thing is to try it before you have to use it! I always do my utmost to encourage owners of tiller boats to keep an oar of the right size and an oarlock on board<\/b>, a set of equipment that can mitigate a number of critical situations. This includes rudder problems of course, but also engine damage, provided that you\u2019ve learnt the noble and indispensable art of sculling.<\/p>\n Find the boat of your dreams among our thousands of used boats for sale<\/a> on Band of Boats<\/a>!<\/p>\n The article is written by Olivier Chauvin.<\/i>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Inspecting the tiller and rudder assembly is undoubtedly the number one safety check, even before you get to the rigging or mechanics! Band of boats tells you how to inspect your rudder ! Damage to the helm is undoubtedly the surest way of heading back to land, but not necessarily the way you would choose! […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":16777,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"
\n2 – Maintaining the rudder when the boat is dry<\/a>
\n3 – Inspect your rudder by checking the tiller!<\/a>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text admin_label=”Paragraphe 1″ module_id=”titre1″ _builder_version=”4.16″ background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_margin=”50px||||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n1. Inspect your rudder system starting with the rudders<\/h2>\n
2. Maintaining the rudder when the boat is dry<\/h2>\n
3. Inspect your rudder by checking the tiller!<\/h2>\n
Inspecter son gouvernail en commen\u00e7ant par les safrans<\/h2>\r\n\r\nLe safran ext\u00e9rieur est plus accessible qu'un autre, mais non moins fragile, et il ne faut pas manquer de v\u00e9rifier que ses aiguillots et f\u00e9melots<\/b> (et surtout leurs vis de fixation), ne pr\u00e9sentent ni usure ni jeu. Un safran suspendu est plus difficile d'acc\u00e8s, aussi il ne faudra perdre aucune opportunit\u00e9 de s'assurer que tout va bien. \r\n\r\nOn profitera d'un \u00e9chouage ou d'une sortie de l'eau pour v\u00e9rifier qu'aucun jeu n'existe entre la barre et la pelle du safran<\/b>. Le moindre battement aurait de graves cons\u00e9quences en terme d'agr\u00e9ment et de finesse des sensations de pilotage, mais peut aussi \u00eatre annonciateur d'une avarie plus grave. En orientant la lame de part et d'autre, on v\u00e9rifiera qu'il n'existe pas non plus de point dur, signe probable d'une m\u00e8che fauss\u00e9e. On pourra s'assurer que le safran est bien align\u00e9 avec le reste du bateau<\/b> en prenant du recul et en effectuant une vis\u00e9e avec la quille. On profitera de l'occasion pour v\u00e9rifier qu'il n'existe pas de fissure, surtout autour de la liaison avec la m\u00e8che<\/b>. Le cas \u00e9ch\u00e9ant, ce serait le risque d'une entr\u00e9e d'eau qui pourrait remplir le safran et le pourrir de l'int\u00e9rieur.\r\n\r\n
![\"safran](\"https:\/\/blog.bandofboats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/safran-bateau.jpg\")
\r\n\r\nEntretenir son gouvernail quand le bateau est \u00e0 sec<\/h2>\r\n\r\nOn profitera de ce que le bateau est au sec, pour r\u00e9parer le moindre choc avec un mastic \u00e9poxy de qualit\u00e9<\/b>. Bien s\u00fbr, on soignera l'\u00e9tat de surface, le profil, mais aussi et surtout le bord de fuite qui doit former un plat vif (et non un arrondi) pour \u00e9viter de g\u00e9n\u00e9rer une tra\u00een\u00e9e pr\u00e9judiciable aux performances. Lors de l'application de la peinture sous-marine, on prendra soin d'\u00eatre g\u00e9n\u00e9reux avec les appendices et donc le safran. On n'oubliera pas le dessus de la pelle\u2026 Cet espace \u00e9troit et peu accessible entre coque et safran, que personne ne voit, et que nous sommes si nombreux \u00e0 n\u00e9gliger...\r\n\r\nSi l'on a constat\u00e9 un d\u00e9faut d'\u00e9tanch\u00e9it\u00e9 au tube de jaumi\u00e8re ou au presse-\u00e9toupe, c'est le moment d'y rem\u00e9dier<\/b>, tout comme on peut v\u00e9rifier que les bagues ne sont pas us\u00e9e en agitant la lame du safran, de gauche \u00e0 droite et d'avant en arri\u00e8re. Au moindre doute, n'h\u00e9sitez pas \u00e0 faire appel \u00e0 un professionnel.\r\n\r\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/blog.bandofboats.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/gouvernail-bateau.jpg\")
\r\n\r\nInspecter son gouvernail en v\u00e9rifiant la barre !<\/h2>\r\n\r\nLa barre franche peut avoir \u00e0 encaisser des efforts importants, et dans un d\u00e9part au lof, il sera un peu tard pour regretter d'avoir n\u00e9glig\u00e9 le bois fendu ou la vis mal serr\u00e9e... La commande de barre \u00e0 roue doit aussi \u00eatre v\u00e9rifi\u00e9e, et ce d'autant plus qu'elle est cach\u00e9e et \u00e9chappe donc plus facilement \u00e0 la vigilance<\/b>. Les bateaux \u00e0 moteur peuvent \u00eatre dot\u00e9s de direction \u00e0 c\u00e2ble (dont le m\u00e9canisme se v\u00e9rifie et se lubrifie) ou hydraulique (qui requi\u00e8rent peu d'entretien, \u00e0 part le serrage des raccords et la v\u00e9rification du niveau d'huile). \r\n\r\nSur la plupart des voiliers, la barre agit par des drosses passant dans des poulies. L'\u00e9tat des c\u00e2bles, de leurs terminaisons, la lubrification des axes et des poulies ne doivent pas \u00eatre n\u00e9glig\u00e9es, tout comme les \u00e9ventuelles traces d'\u00e9lectrolyse entre le secteur et la m\u00e8che (l'un \u00e9tant g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement en aluminium et l'autre en inox, la corrosion entre les deux peut faire des ravages). Toutes ces pr\u00e9cautions auront pour effet de rendre la barre plus douce et agr\u00e9able et de limiter les risques de casse brutale.\r\n\r\nIl n'emp\u00eache qu'une avarie de barre n'est jamais totalement exclue et que l'on y fera d'autant mieux face que l'on y sera pr\u00e9par\u00e9. Les bateaux \u00e9quip\u00e9s d'une barre \u00e0 roue, sont obligatoirement dot\u00e9s d'une barre franche de secours ; encore faut-il qu'elle ne soit pas enfouie dans les tr\u00e9fonds du bateau et qu'elle soit r\u00e9ellement utilisable. Le plus s\u00fbr serait de l'essayer avant d'avoir \u00e0 s'en servir ! Je ne saurais trop encourager les propri\u00e9taires de bateaux \u00e0 barre franche, de disposer \u00e0 bord d'un aviron de taille suffisante et d'une dame de nage<\/b>, un ensemble capable de pallier \u00e0 pas mal de situations critiques ; probl\u00e8mes de gouvernail bien s\u00fbr, mais aussi avarie moteur, pour autant que l'on ait pris soin de s'initier au noble et indispensable art de la godille<\/a>.\r\n\r\nTrouvez le bateau de vos r\u00eaves parmi nos milliers d'annonces de bateaux d'occasion ou neuf sur Band of Boats<\/a> !<\/b>\r\n\r\nL\u2019article est r\u00e9dig\u00e9 par Olivier Chauvin<\/a>.<\/i>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[252],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12372","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-boat-maintenance"],"yoast_head":"\n